Vén Bakter Borozó

Vén Bakter Borozó is in central Hévíz, at Erzsébet királyné utca 9, a few minutes from the lake bath. According to its Facebook page it has been open since 1993 and has never wanted to be anything other than what it is: a real, old-fashioned wine bar (borozó) where wine is drawn from chilled jars, railway relics hang on the walls, and Hungarian and foreign guests chat at the bar.

In memory of a signalman

A bakter is the old name for a railway crossing keeper, and the bar’s furnishings evoke that world: railway memorabilia, old pictures, simple wooden tables, a retro feel. This isn’t fashionable retro design but the bar’s own world, built up since 1993. According to guest reviews, railway workers like to come here too, which is hardly surprising given the name.

Wine, the old way

According to its own description, the bar serves wines from Hungary’s historic wine regions, poured by measure as befits a borozó. Here the fröccs (wine spritzer) isn’t a trendy drink but a basic. You can get coffee too, but people come here mainly for a glass of wine or a spritzer.

The bread and dripping

The food offer is limited, but the bar claims to serve the town’s best zsíroskenyér (bread with lard and onion). With a spritzer, that’s the essence of the place. Some guests say it isn’t always available, so if that’s why you’re coming, ask.

Space and atmosphere

A small, friendly place with a family atmosphere and a terrace. The crowd is mixed: locals, regulars and German, Czech and other foreign visitors to the spa town sit side by side. This isn’t a quiet wine bar but a chatty, pub-like borozó, in the best sense of the word.

What guests say

On Google it averages around 4.5/5 from almost four hundred reviews, and 9.9/10 on Szallas.hu. Guests praise the friendly service, the wines, the atmosphere full of old objects and the friendly prices. A few are less satisfied with the wine quality for the price, and there are some complaints about payment options.

Good to know

Sources contradict each other on whether card payment is possible, so to be on the safe side bring cash. According to online listings it’s open from early morning until 9 pm, but check before you go.

Who it’s for

Anyone who wants a simple spritzer and bread and dripping after a day at the baths and likes the atmosphere of real old wine bars. A cult spot too: a little piece of the Hévíz that was here before the hotels. Not the place for an elegant dinner or a big meal.

How much does it cost?

Good value, with prices guests describe as friendly.