Hegyi Borterasz

Hegyi Borterasz sits on Kishegy hill above Balatonlelle, about four kilometres from town along a paved road through the vineyards; where the road forks at the top, a sign shows the way. It has welcomed guests since 1998, and the view reaches across the lake to the far shore: Badacsony and the hills of the Káli Basin, best at sunset.

From csárda to wine terrace

It opened as Hegyi Csárda in an old-style, press-house-like building designed to blend into the vineyard hill. It was later renamed Hegyi Borterasz as the owner put the focus on wine. As the MOL Nagyon Balaton “100 good places” guide puts it, the name changed but the essence stayed: the wood-fired oven, which even made it into the logo.

Kishegy

Kishegy is often called the Badacsony of the south shore. Wineries, wine terraces and press houses line the hill, there is a lookout on the ridge, the baroque St Donatus chapel dates from the mid-18th century, and in June you can spot bee-eater nest holes in the loess walls. The Kishegyi Kortyok és Falatok festival is held here in spring and the Murci Festival in late October. Hegyi Borterasz lies one street below the chapel, a natural dinner stop after a walk or tasting.

Terraces above the vines

The covered section seats sixty, the garden forty. The terraces have a Mediterranean feel, with shade under the wooden pergola. Children get a swing playground, high chairs and a kids’ menu. Weddings, birthdays and company events are hosted too.

The oven takes centre stage

The kitchen builds on old-time wood-fired dishes, complemented by more modern ones, using local producers where possible. From the oven come goose leg with onion mash, braised cabbage and cinnamon plums, and pork knuckle pieces with sausage and pickled red onion. Alongside: wild boar stew in red wine with dumplings, breaded catfish with potato salad, honey-fig chicken with vegetable rice and gomolya cheese, Ozsvárt-style cheddar sausage, and grilled local cheese for non-meat eaters. Sides are always included, and half portions are available.

Starters are made for wine: smoked cuts from the pantry with cheese spread and sourdough, regional cheeses with apple, olives and homemade grape jam, or duck liver pâté with red onion jam. Soups are wild boar goulash or, in summer, cold strawberry cream soup with curd dumplings, which MOL Nagyon Balaton says brings back the happier side of school canteen memories. To finish, poppy seed guba with poppy foam and raspberry, or homemade grape-jam pancakes with mascarpone vanilla, which HelloHungary calls a house speciality.

Kishegy on one wine list

The wine list reads like a walk across the hill. House wines come from neighbouring Garamvári and Pócz. Bottles include Konyári Loliense, Garamvári Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc, Bujdosó, Kislaki, Ikon, Várszegi, Androsics and A zöld ajtós ház, many by the glass. The pálinka is home-made: Irsai Olivér grape, pear and Kékfrankos marc. Non-drinkers get homemade elderflower, sour cherry and raspberry syrups, apple juice or fresh grape must.

What testers and guests say

Pénzcentrum tested the place in summer 2023: the catfish was tender and boneless, the chicken good, portions generous, atmosphere ten out of ten, and every table was reserved. On Tripadvisor guests highlight the hearty home-style food, the sunset, friendly service and the house wines and syrups. Recurring advice: bring mosquito repellent in the evening, and several guests say it is cash only.

Who it is for

Families and groups of friends for a hearty dinner from the oven, wine lovers who want to taste Kishegy’s wineries at one table, and anyone who wants to watch the sunset from the south shore over the far side. Book in summer and at weekends. Closed in winter; in spring and autumn weekends only.

Prices

Mid-range: mains with sides cost roughly 5,500-7,000 forints, and no service charge is added.