Taberna Infinito, Kisapáti: Mediterranean tapas and a botanical garden on Szent György-hegy

Many restaurants in the Balaton Uplands have a beautiful view, but few have created such a deliberately distinctive setting. Taberna Infinito in Kisapáti, on the slopes of Szent György-hegy, brings together a Mediterranean-style terrace, an experimental plant collection and a tapas-based kitchen. The volcanic witness hills and the Balaton landscape unfold before guests, while aubergine spread, Spanish-style Mangalica pork stew and local wine may arrive at the table. The restaurant’s story began in 2018, but its connection with the landscape goes back further.

Taberna’s real value does not rest on a single award or dish. It lies more in the idea that visitors should come to the hillside not simply to eat, but to slip into an entirely different rhythm for an afternoon. The contrast in guest reviews is important, however: the panorama and atmosphere attract plenty of praise, while opinions on the food and value for money are less unanimous.

Szent György-hegy: a setting that takes centre stage

Above Kisapáti, on the slopes of Szent György-hegy, even the approach signals that this is no ordinary town restaurant. A narrow mountain road, uneven in places, leads up to the terrace, which overlooks Badacsony and the surrounding volcanic witness hills. The setting is both rustic and Mediterranean, defined by stone, timber, gravel, plants, simple tables and a wide-open sky.

Taberna’s central promise is “wine and tapas”, but dinner may also come with the quiet of the landscape or a themed musical event. Summer tables beneath a starry sky and more sheltered autumn meals reveal different sides of the same place.

The view is no substitute for good cooking, but it explains why so many people choose this hillside restaurant as a destination rather than simply somewhere to stop for lunch.

2018: Taberna Infinito is born

The restaurant’s official introduction identifies 2018 as the year Taberna opened. Contemporary reports name Bicskei Sándor as its founder and the key host during its early years. Street Kitchen’s 2019 on-site article highlighted Sándor’s hospitality, homemade dishes and local wines alongside the unusual panorama.

The concept did not start with a traditional, multi-page Hungarian menu. Mediterranean- and Balkan-inspired small plates encourage sharing: one person chooses aubergine spread, another tuna spread or Spanish-style stew, and the group gets to sample several flavours.

Taberna is not a replica of a classic, authentic Spanish tapas bar. On its 2026 menu, Mangalica pork, sausage from Tótkomlós, Hungarian-style stew, chilli con carne and vegan poke bowl sit alongside one another. Its character is better described as a freely mixed cuisine with Mediterranean inspiration.

Bicskei Sándor: falling for the landscape before creating a garden

Bicskei Sándor fell in love with the Kisapáti side of Szent György-hegy in 2015. In a 2023 LikeBalaton interview, he recalled growing up in Monor and then spending many years in central Budapest; by his own account, gardening had not previously been part of his life. The mountain landscape, however, fundamentally changed his plans.

At the time, the land was covered by vines and an orchard that had been neglected for more than ten years. Clearing it took a long time. Initially, they tried to preserve the old plants, but the soil and ageing stock eventually prompted a new plan: a garden based on hardy Mediterranean species.

The commitment behind this story is particularly striking. Large quantities of topsoil were brought up the hill, mature olive trees were imported from Spain, and species were sought that could genuinely thrive in the local microclimate. This is not simply decorative planting created as a photo backdrop, but a long-term undertaking shaped over many years.

A botanical garden alongside dinner

The Balatoni Mediterrán Botanikus Kert opened for guided visits in 2023. According to its own information, it now showcases nearly 700 species of plants, trees and shrubs. Visitors can walk among palms, agaves, yuccas, lavenders and olive trees, with the hills and the Balaton landscape in the background.

According to the 2023 interview, one of the garden’s most intriguing features is its planting of decades-old olive trees rescued from Spain. Its creators build on the sub-Mediterranean microclimate and winter hardiness: plants are selected to survive not just through summer, but over the longer term.

The plants may also connect with the kitchen. The contemporary report says that herbs grown in raised beds are used in the restaurant. The restaurant’s 2026 introduction describes an even greater use of produce from its own garden, but the actual daily extent of this could not be independently verified.

The garden is a separate visitor attraction: do not assume that every restaurant meal automatically includes garden admission. The 2026 Restaurant Week menu, for example, specifically offered a complimentary garden ticket; different ticket conditions apply at other times.

Tapas: the pleasure of sharing

The cold tapas on the 2026 menu include aubergine spread, Greek feta and curd cheese spread, a selection of olives, tuna spread and giant beans in tomato sauce. Three- or five-item chef’s selections are also available, making it worth sharing several dishes rather than ordering a single separate plate for each person.

A basket of Balkan flatbread can accompany the cold bites. The spreads and olives work best in the middle of the table, where everyone can help themselves. Rather than a single show-stopping dish, the interest lies in small differences: the smoky notes of aubergine, feta’s salty richness or the fullness of the tomato beans.

A Spanish ham and salami selection with homemade cheese and olives represents the more classic meat-based options. Although several dishes have Spanish names, the kitchen also draws on wider Mediterranean, Balkan and Hungarian elements.

Spanish-style Mangalica pork stew: one of the kitchen’s best introductions

According to the 2026 menu, the Spanish-style stew is made with Mangalica pork shoulder, red wine and Iranian raisins. It appears both as a tapas portion and as a main course. It is a good example of Taberna’s attempt to connect Hungarian ingredients with Mediterranean flavours.

The rich meat gravy and the sweetness of the dried fruit can create an intriguing contrast. For someone familiar with classic Hungarian pörkölt, raisins may seem unusual, but that is precisely what signals the restaurant’s freer, international outlook.

On the 2026 menu, the tapas portion costs HUF 2790 and the main course with nokedli dumplings and salad HUF 4990. A 12 per cent service charge is added to the listed prices.

Mediterranean lecsó and a reinterpretation of Hungarian cooking

The 2026 selection includes Mediterranean lecsó with eight vegetables, sausage from Tótkomlós and crispy bacon pieces. The menu separately identifies a version without sausage, which may help guests avoiding meat, although other animal-derived ingredients still need to be checked.

This dish perhaps demonstrates the kitchen’s dual nature even more clearly than the tapas: it starts from a Hungarian foundation but seeks a lighter, more southerly flavour through vegetables and seasoning.

Naturally, the menu does not consist only of these specialities. It also includes chilli con carne, grilled chicken breast, garlic pork steak, brassói pork and potatoes, BBQ pork belly and grilled gomolya cheese. This broadens the choice, although guests seeking a strictly Spanish tapas bar may find the culinary identity less consistent.

Meat-free and vegan dishes

Alongside vegetarian grilled gomolya cheese, the 2026 menu offers a vegan poke bowl with Mediterranean rice, chickpeas, peanuts, salads and giant beans in tomato sauce. Several cold tapas are also meat-free.

This is particularly welcome for mixed groups in which not everyone wants stew or grilled meat. However, I would not automatically classify dairy-based spreads or lecsó without sausage as vegan; allergens and preparation methods should always be clarified on site.

Profiteroles and Mediterranean refreshments

Among the desserts, the 2026 menu specifically names profiteroles with toasted almonds and whipped cream, as well as a weekly special. The Italian-inspired dessert fits easily into a leisurely tapas lunch.

Drinks include lemonades and fruit cordials, such as a prickly pear version, as well as cocktails and local wines. Taberna’s own introduction particularly emphasises wines from Szent György-hegy producers. However, the online wine list checked for this article did not name individual wineries, so I would not invent brand names for them.

The hillside location makes it worth planning transport in advance if you intend to drink wine. With the narrow road and the views, getting there and back is very much part of the visit.

Restaurant Week 2026: tasting menus with a separate garden ticket

Taberna took part in National Restaurant Week from 1 to 18 October 2026. Its HUF 6900 tapas menu offered two cold and two hot tapas, Balkan flatbread and profiteroles. On the HUF 8900 menu, guests could choose from eight main courses after the cold starters, followed by dessert.

A complimentary ticket to the Balatoni Mediterrán Botanikus Kert was advertised as an additional benefit with the menus. This illustrates how the kitchen and garden can be combined into a several-hour outing. However, the menu ended on 18 October 2026 and should not be presented as a permanent offer.

Hillside events: not always a quiet dinner

In 2026, Taberna organised a range of events, including flamenco, stand-up comedy, belly-dancing evenings and sunset DJ sets. The Mediterranean garden and panorama therefore also serve as an events setting.

This can mean two different guest experiences. It may be particularly appealing to anyone looking for a lively, sociable evening. Those coming for the hill’s tranquillity, however, should avoid louder event days. Check the current programme before booking, as the summer 2026 events do not mean that there is live music every weekend.

Guest reviews: more agreement on the panorama than on the food

Public opinion on Taberna is distinctly divided. At the time of research, DiningCity showed 4.7/5 from 26 reviews, Ittjártam.hu showed 4.9/5 from just five reports, while Tripadvisor’s average was 3.2/5 from 51 reviews. The samples and platforms differ, so they cannot be combined into a single verified average.

The common ground is the landscape. Almost without exception, guests appreciate the view and the unusual Mediterranean setting. DiningCity reviewers also repeatedly praise the friendly service. One positive report from October 2025 describes a perfect Sunday afternoon.

However, a critical guest in May 2025 found the grilled gomolya cheese cold, hard and tasteless, while rating the view and service as excellent. Older Tripadvisor reviews also include complaints about prices, billing and the handling of problems. These individual claims, some dating back years, should not automatically be presented as current operational faults.

Editorial conclusion: the location and garden experience are substantial assets in their own right; guest feedback suggests caution about the kitchen’s consistency.

Getting there: the road uphill is not straightforward for everyone

Access is one of the practical drawbacks most frequently mentioned. The road towards Kisapáti hegy is narrow and uneven in places, and oncoming traffic may even require reversing. I would not regard this as a professional failing of the restaurant, but it matters a great deal when planning a visit.

According to the garden’s own information, free parking is available on site. Anyone uneasy about driving on hillside roads should check the conditions in advance or choose another way of getting there. Arranging the journey home beforehand is particularly advisable if you plan to drink wine.

The botanical garden’s gravelled and sloping areas may be difficult with a pushchair or wheelchair. I would not claim, without verification, that the entire restaurant and garden are accessible.

For families and visitors with dogs

Taberna describes itself as dog-friendly on its own booking and contact page. Dogs must be kept on leads in the garden, with consideration for other visitors.

Children are welcome too, but the official information explicitly calls for extra care because of the hillside terrain, plants and animals. This is not somewhere that should automatically be treated as an enclosed, unsupervised playground.

There is a covered area in bad weather, but strong winds or extreme conditions may affect opening hours. A panoramic, partly outdoor venue like this should always be planned around the weather.

25 October 2026: the final day of the season

When establishing whether the venue is operating, an official, dated announcement is the strongest evidence. The restaurant advertised half-price tapas days on 16–17 and 23–25 October 2026, with advance booking, and specifically stated that this year’s season runs until 25 October, with the next visits planned for 2027.

This indicates seasonal operation, not permanent closure. However, different parts of the website display several conflicting sets of opening hours. The reliable reference points are a specific event date, the booking system and a fresh announcement for the relevant week, rather than an old timetable that appears permanent.

Is Taberna Infinito worth visiting?

Yes, if you know what to expect. Taberna’s greatest strengths are its panorama, Mediterranean botanical garden and the experience built around sharing tapas. Allow plenty of time: a garden visit, a few shared dishes, a refreshing drink and a long conversation set the rhythm here.

Those expecting impeccable tapas-bar standards on every occasion and straightforward access may have reservations. Guest criticism clearly reveals this duality.

Taberna Infinito is one of Szent György-hegy’s most distinctive dining settings, where the landscape and garden are the dependable stars of the experience, and the kitchen is best explored with curiosity and realistic expectations.