Gilvesy b-üzem

Gilvesy Vinotéka – B-üzem in Nemesgulács: where a concrete works became a wine bar, and a wine bar became a community space

In Nemesgulács, right beside the railway stop serving Kisapáti, an unusual building welcomes visitors. It does not look like a traditional Balaton wine bar: traces of its rural industrial past remain on the walls, vinyl records sit alongside old posters, and a glass of wine and a good sandwich can easily keep you in the courtyard for longer than planned. Gilvesy Vinotéka – B-üzem occupies a former concrete works. The name’s original meaning is still embedded in its walls, but today it is just as much about wine, Balaton and friends.

The venue opened as a Gilvesy wine shop and bar in 2021, and Sipos Réka and Petykó István have run the hospitality side since 2024. The pair brought the approach they had developed at Vánkos in Badacsonyörs, then gradually gave the Nemesgulács bistro a character of its own. Gilvesy wines remained the house’s most important constants. The result is part wine bar, part breakfast spot, seasonal bistro and cultural meeting place.

A second life for a concrete works

B-üzem did not choose industrial style simply because it was fashionable. The building really was once part of the area’s stone and concrete industry. Spaces reminiscent of a rural workshop, original walls and details of the former inspection pit survived the renovation. Old and new surfaces meet in a deliberately somewhat raw yet welcoming space.

The renovated concrete works does not try to imitate the romance of a vine-covered pergola. The opposite is what makes it interesting: the history of the walls, the vinyl, the terrace and creative wine labels coexist naturally. The winery’s founder, Gilvesy Robert, previously also welcomed wine lovers into his own home; by creating the Nemesgulács wine bar and shop, he gave the winery a separate, more open community venue.

Opening in 2021, followed by a culinary change in 2024

During B-üzem’s first phase, Neapolitan pizzas played an important role alongside Gilvesy wines. However, the pizza era associated with Budapest’s Telep gave way to a new culinary vision in 2024, when Sipos Réka and Petykó István, known from Vánkos, took over hospitality.

The change meant more than new dishes. The focus shifted to small plates suited to wine, fermented vegetables, local producers, comfort food and an event-filled community space. For a time, they divided their work between the two venues; later, B-üzem developed its own regular clientele and seasonal rhythm. The year 2026 marks the pair’s third season in Nemesgulács.

2026: breakfast service and an evening bistro

One of B-üzem’s most important innovations is a daily rhythm adapted to summer by Balaton. In intense heat, guests do not necessarily want lunch in a concrete courtyard, so the team divided operations into breakfast and dinner periods. Mornings may bring coffee, sourdough bread, brunch and sandwiches; in the late afternoon and evening, the wine-bar and bistro character takes centre stage.

In May 2026, they told Dining Guide about an established group of regulars: locals and people dividing their time between homes who return for anything from a single coffee to a longer dinner. That flexibility is the model’s greatest advantage. You do not have to plan a substantial meal every time, but a glass of wine and a couple of bites can easily turn into an entire evening.

Nemesgulács Fried Chicken: the area’s own chicken sandwich

Nemesgulács Fried Chicken, or NFC for short, had become a real crowd favourite by 2025, and the operators still describe it as a defining part of the menu in 2026. It starts with chicken thigh fillet marinated in pickle brine, coated in seasoned buttermilk batter and placed in a buttery bun. The spicy, full flavour of gochujang aioli and the freshness of salad complete it.

The sandwich neatly brings together traditional crispy fried chicken and contemporary international street food. Responding to its popularity with guests, the team introduced a spicier kimchi version called KFC in 2026. These are not merely occasional experiments: the chicken sandwiches have also joined the breakfast selection. The playful acronyms suit B-üzem’s relaxed, self-deprecating character.

Wine snacks that do more than decorate the glass

When we talk about a wine bar’s food, the usual olives, cheese and bread easily come to mind. B-üzem thinks more boldly. Earlier menus included wine-vinegar crisps, pörkölt gravy and croquettes, with related new bites added to the seasonal selection.

As early as 2024, Petykó István spoke about how much he missed a good pörkölt with sauce for dipping in wine bars. This led to the idea that saucy Hungarian dishes could work in small portions alongside a glass of wine. Pörkölts made from beef cheek, chicken gizzards and other cuts appeared in earlier selections. The precise composition changes continually, but the idea has remained.

Mangalica croquettes and Angus croquetas

The croquette is one of the best bridges between B-üzem’s two worlds. In 2024 reports, Mangalica croquettes appeared as a regular item; by the 2025 Dining Guide interview, Angus croquetas featured among the permanent wine accompaniments. This shows how the team reinterprets a proven format with different ingredients.

A successful croquette delivers pleasure through a crisp exterior and a soft, meaty centre. It is easy to imagine how good such a bite could be with a white wine with taut acidity or a playful red served cool. However, the two names should not be confused: the current selection determines which version is available that day.

Fermented vegetables and a menu dictated by the season

Réka and István’s kitchen does not work around a fixed menu of dozens of dishes. They adapt to what producers can supply, especially for vegetable dishes. A 2024 on-site report mentioned courgette lecsó, kohlrabi salad, fermented vegetables and local ingredients; according to the 2025 interview, blackboard specials and vegetable dishes continued to change regularly.

Cheeses from nearby Tekeresvölgyi, trout from Tapolca and Angus beef from Farm54 in Várvölgy also appeared in earlier kitchen accounts. These are not automatically items on the current purchasing list, but examples of the local network on which the kitchen draws. Seasonality has real meaning here: a dish depends not just on what the chef wants to cook, but also on what is ripening locally.

Kimchi-and-cheese toast and sourdough bread

B-üzem’s creativity is visible even in the simplest dishes. Kimchi-and-cheese toast is an enduring favourite according to both the 2025 and 2026 accounts. The cheese’s rich, melting character is offset by the acidity and spice of fermented cabbage. It is not a complicated concept, but these small differences are exactly what matter in a well-made toasted sandwich.

The development of breakfast also gave new impetus to breadmaking. In 2026, the team reported making its own slowly fermented sourdough bread while retaining the gluten-free rice bread introduced earlier. However, anyone with an allergy or coeliac disease should always ask separately about the risk of cross-contamination.

Gilvesy wines: the hill in the glass

B-üzem is not simply a bistro that happens to sell good wine. It is the open meeting point for Gilvesy Robert’s winery, making wine an attraction in its own right. The winery began in its present form in 2012 on the volcanic slopes of Szent György-hegy, and vineyard cultivation turned towards organic farming from 2014. Alongside Rhine Riesling, Furmint and Olaszrizling, Sauvignon Blanc also plays an important role.

The wines seek freshness, lively acidity and the character described as mineral that is associated with basalt soils. According to the operators in 2025, B-üzem’s selection consisted predominantly of Gilvesy wines, although bottles from like-minded local producers also appeared. For lovers of older vintages, a particular point of interest is that an independent wine-tasting account documented older Gilvesy wines at the wine shop in spring 2026.

PIXU, pét-nat and Furmint on tap

Gilvesy’s range also has room for lighter, experimental wines. The PIXU family shows the winery’s more informal side, while the pét-nats explore more natural, playful bubbles. Their mood particularly suits B-üzem’s world of vinyl, DJ events and relaxed gatherings around tables.

A particular novelty in 2026 was Furmint on tap: wine rather than beer came through the beer tap. The team also presented an even fresher, unfiltered wine that forms the basis of Váradi Furmint in this format. When choosing wine, ask about the current experimental or rarer bottles. The evening’s most interesting sip may not be hiding behind a familiar label.

Alcohol-free too: Genki water kefir, cascara and verjus

B-üzem is one of the few wine-focused places where the alcohol-free selection also reflects an individual approach. Genki water kefir became popular as a fermented refreshment, with flavours including wild chamomile, Persian lime and hibiscus. In 2026, the team also experimented with cascara and soda water, as well as other fermented drinks in small bottles.

An interesting connecting ingredient is verjus, the juice of unripe grapes. It can add acidity to soft drinks without the need for lemon or vinegar. In this way, the winery’s world appears in alcohol-free glasses too. The available flavours may change from time to time.

The wine shop as living room, gallery and dance floor

B-üzem’s best qualities are difficult to fit into a single hospitality category. One day it is a breakfast spot, another a venue for a guided wine tasting. It has hosted yoga on the grass, pétanque in the garden, pop-up art exhibitions and vinyl DJ evenings. The 2025 account also mentions a temporary residency by Szikra Galéria.

Music is not random background noise here: turntables and curated DJ programmes are integral to the identity. In 2026, the team also planned an outdoor DJ station and dance floor. How these operate during any particular visit depends on the events calendar. It therefore makes sense to schedule a quiet evening over wine separately from a party-focused event.

Beside the railway station: a rare advantage in wine country

Many good wineries on Szent György-hegy require a car journey or a longer walk. B-üzem is an exception. The Nemesgulács–Kisapáti railway stop is practically at its entrance, making it conveniently accessible by train from the surrounding area.

This is a particularly significant advantage for wine drinking. If you do not want to appoint a designated driver, check outward and return timetables in advance. Catching the last train remains your responsibility, of course. Drivers should clarify on-site parking arrangements and cyclists should ask about bicycle storage beforehand, as there is no recent official information covering every detail.

How does B-üzem differ from a traditional Balaton wine bar?

Above all, wine here is not detached from everyday life. You can talk seriously about Furmint, basalt and vintages, yet nobody is surprised if someone has come for a fried chicken sandwich. Local winemakers, residents, people with two homes and day-trippers can meet in the same raw yet inclusive space.

The Gilvesy winery provides the professional framework, while Réka and István provide the kitchen and community rhythm. The two should not be judged as substitutes for each other. The winery’s reputation does not automatically mean every dish is flawless, and an individual successful bistro dish cannot replace genuine depth on the wine side. B-üzem is exciting precisely because it builds its own personality in both.

What should you try first?

On a first visit, I would start with Nemesgulács Fried Chicken. The sandwich remains a particularly well-documented crowd favourite in 2026 and neatly demonstrates the kitchen’s relaxed, international comfort-food side. A second dish to share could be whichever croquetas are available, followed by kimchi-and-cheese toast or a seasonal vegetable dish.

For drinks, ask about the day’s wine recommendations. An unusual barrel sample, experimental wine on tap, older vintage or small-batch pét-nat may tell you more about the place than a randomly chosen bottle. For an alcohol-free pairing, one of Genki’s current flavours could be interesting.

Guest reviews: a strong concept, but still a limited public sample

The public business rating is positive, but B-üzem has fewer detailed, recent and independent restaurant reviews than Balaton’s long-established, high-volume restaurants. The June 2026 Borrajongó account, for example, is first-hand and useful, but it tastes wines rather than testing the full bistro kitchen.

It would therefore be unfair to list unverified, supposedly “recurring” dish faults at B-üzem. What is certain is the unusual setting created from an industrial space, the short seasonal menu, the professional wine background and regular community events. The practical trade-offs are real too: highly variable opening hours, a break between breakfast and evening service, an event-focused winter operation and dishes that sometimes change.

Opening hours in 2026: the bar and the wine shop are not the same

This is one of the most important points to know. On Gilvesy’s official website, the bar is seasonal, generally operating between May and October. The English-language opening-hours page lists Thursday evenings, breakfast and evening service on Fridays and Saturdays, and Sunday opening from morning to early afternoon. The Hungarian page and some external services show slightly different times.

The wine shop is separate, indicating Monday-to-Friday availability between 9:00 and 15:00, with enquiries at the office. Being able to buy a bottle therefore does not necessarily mean the kitchen is serving guests. In October 2026, the Google business listing showed a temporary closure, while the official website and a recently updated external schedule displayed seasonal opening hours. Before visiting to eat, we recommend confirmation by phone or through current social-media information.

Gilvesy B-üzem: is it worth a special trip?

Yes, if your sole aim is not a traditional three-course dinner. B-üzem is an unusual meeting of volcanic wines, creative bistro food, industrial heritage and good music. Anyone seeking a conventional restaurant with a consistently fixed menu and predictable opening hours may find its operation unfamiliar. Those happy to adapt to the season and enjoy distinctive, personal venues, however, may discover something special.

The real value of B-üzem in Nemesgulács is that it does not simply offer wine: it creates a place for people to meet. You could board the next train at the stop, but you may well decide to stay for another glass instead.